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Characteristics of reels and how to choose the right one:

There are 20000 types of reel on market and choose the right model to us isn't always easy; We begin by understanding the key features usually shown on the boxes:

  • Weight: surely important on all types of fishing, especially in those where you always have the cane in his hand; Reel too heavy tired arm and throws off the weight with the cane.
  • gear ratio: usually denoted "4.8:1"; indicates the revolutions of the rotor that turns the reel with one full turn of the knob; a high recovery ratio increases the amount of yarn collected but also makes it difficult to retrieve a fish important as it increases the effort; to better understand it's a bit like in a bike put a high speed ratio and going uphill.
  • quantity nylon/diameter; indicates the amount of a certain diameter nylon that the reel can hold, is usually expressed in 2-3 diameters but with a proportion is quite easy to estimate how much yarn contains by other measures.
  • Clutch power (maximum drag): indicates the maximum power reaching the clutch to Kg maximum closure, it is usually referred to only on reels that target heavy efforts (spinning or rotating)
  • number of bearings: don't be fooled by this metric, the tendency of companies is to fill the bearing unnecessary reels in order to write on the box that has 10-12-14 bearings. Better a few good quality bearings (the basics are 4) in all the right places which shoddy bearings 10.

Now let's divide them into categories and see the differences:

  • Classic reels from spininng, bolognese, match, feeder: (front drag)(rear drag)
    Are the classic reels that we are accustomed to using for many types of fishing and are usually higher and lower friction clutch. What is the difference? The reel has rear drag is definitely the easiest to adjust during combat with the fish because the clutch adjustment is positioned at the bottom of the reel and easy to access. My advice is to choose a reel front drag for a few simple reasons: the clutch plates in front drag reel seat are bigger, the reel will collect in power, fluidity, regularity of the clutch; Front Drag Reels in the main shaft is literally screwed on the slider swinging while on the rear clutch alpero has a channel on which a tongue locks it to the mechanics of the reel allowing rotation. Last but not least, front drag reels that coil is "locked" onto the shaft from the knob that is screwed through the internal nut directly on the shaft while the rear drag reels the system is similar to the previous case, a Groove on the shaft on which hangs a clothespin spring steel mail inside the reel and detachable via key above the same. Easy for understand why always a front drag to a back.
  • Bairtunner: (See in the store)
    reels are characterized by a lever (usually placed in the lower part) that if driven drop almost all of clutch plates coming a second adjustment in the same much softer than the last.
    Are used in all types of fishing carp fishing type where you don't have the cane in his hand and serves to prevent the fish may drag in the water; When hooking the baitrunner is active and the clutch is slow; taking the cane in his hand and giving half a turn of the knob baitrunner snaps and turns off and the clutch back to initial setting set on the lading the thread breakage
  • Big Pit/ Long Cast:(See in the store)
    are the classic surf casting reels and are characterized by large, capacious reels; facilitate the launch and achieve distances reducing stress of wire; the coil ambia also increases the amount of recovered nylon per turn of the coil up to 80-90 cm and this facilitates recovery is empty and with fish
  • Dervishes (multipliers): (See in the store)
    reels for use at sea for trolling or drifting; they are characterized by high potencies (expressed in pounds); very low recovery ratios (for the reason explained above) and large sizes of wire. They are the only choice when you want to tackle large prey.
    can I get the clutch to "Star" located next to the knob or toggle; the first is found only on reels of low power while the second powerful models and is always accompanied by a second preset setting to adjust the tension from the "free" to the position of "strike". This is to be adjusted based on the tensile strength of nylon. Another feature is the star as the clutch is coated only on reels "small" This helps proper spooling the reel but is very fragile and is never put on reels that target efforts.
  • casting reel: (See in the store)
    lie usually round (round) and low profile (crushed); tend to be more powerful and lighter seconds have similar characteristics. First of all to note the major difference compared to a classical whirlpool, on these reels winding wheel is being launched that recovery and is crucial for understanding how to adjust it to avoid the usual and annoying "wigs".
    first regulation "macroscopic" is made through a lateral wheel (same side of the knob) that tightening it press directly on the shaft of the reel; the second is via a located on the other side of the reel. This can be of two types: centrifugal or magnetic; the first is usually more easily regulated as there is a knob with graduated scale, the more you squeeze more increases the stopping power of the reel. The second requires the opening of "cheek" where you will find 6/8 pins arranged a Halo that can move inward or outward, outward posrtando will increase the stopping power. My advice if you approach this reel is to use baits of at least 10 gr. about and start holding it tight enough; you need to understand how it works and get the hang of before putting them on.

How to choose the right reel based on the type of fishing:

  • spinning:
    definitely a front drag for the reasons listed above; They range in size from small 1000 to 10000-12000-20000; usually you use a measure 1000 on ultra light canes Chub fishing in the river or region game; 2500-3000 measures are classic and definitely find more jobs such as the black bass; 4000-5000 start to be the most important measures that target the biggest fish such as Pike regarding fresh water; are the first measures used at sea on spinning da riva as in fishing for bass but is the correct measure on greenhouse, barracuda and lecce are small. the bigger sizes are used in fresh water only for torpedoes and sturgeons while at sea they use for fishing from boat and dimension depending on the fish you want to catch (here max drag becomes paramount) and the amount of nylon/braid that you need.
  • Feeder/match:
    the most used are 4000 and 5000; reels with content and large coils to reduce the stress of nylon and have a good recovery speed despite not having an excessive recovery ratio
  • Beach ledgering/surf-casting:
    sizes varying between 5000/6000 and the 10000/14000; the first combined with lower casting beach ledgering cane with respect to surf rods and nate per essere rods from research; in the surf where you must maximize your casting distance better a higher measurement
  • carpfishing:
    you usually use variable dimensions between 10000 and 14000 in that the diameters of nylon are supported and there is need to have a good capacity in coil; very convenient the baitrunner which prevents the reeds are "torn" from the pod. The high measure of prey also requires reliable gear, better for cfui avoid whirlpools are small.
  • torpedo/sturgeon:
    the large size of prey make it compulsory to use reel capacious and very powerful, it is recommended not to go below a 10000